Lobster tail and lamb chop from El Conquistador

Don't think you can only get good lobster on the coast. Try the El Conquistador restarant in Howey-In-The-Hills. (Hilda Perez, Orlando Sentinel / October 21, 2008)

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With gas prices dipping and cooler temperatures tempting us to get out of the house, perhaps a nice drive and dinner are in order. El Conquistador at the Mission Inn Resort & Club in Howey-in-the-Hills is a destination to consider.

Hidden in Lake County near Yalaha, the privately held resort is a popular spot for weddings and corporate retreats. But growth in this part of Central Florida has more and more locals heading down County Road 48 in search of an evening meal.

The lobster bisque ($8) is a great way to begin. The rosy concoction has nice undertones of sherry intermingled with sweet pieces of shellfish. Or try the buttery tenderloin of beef carpaccio ($10) that comes with baby arugula leaves, a Parmesan crostini and a lemon-mustard sauce.

Of the four salads on the menu, the lump crab and asparagus ($12) is the standout. Served with a wild spring mix of greens, the presentation is drizzled with a citrus vinaigrette.

For entrees, you can't miss with the lamb shank ($24). The slow-simmered meat falls from the bone into a rich mushroom demi-glace. The farm-raised salmon ($22) bathed in subtle lobster-vanilla sauce was a palate pleaser. The kitchen handled steaks ($23-$29) expertly. But the disappointing veal scaloppine ($24), which was sauteed in white wine, lacked the spark promised from a Meyer lemon sauce.

A showstopper special that will become a fixture on the revised fall menu is the surf and turf La Reina ($42). The cold-water lobster tail and New Zealand chop is presented with a goat cheese compote and port wine demi-glace sauce, sweet mint jelly and melted butter.

All of the entrees were served with grilled asparagus and mashed purple potatoes, but those sides change depending on the whims of the chef. You must notice the butter plate when the bread basket is brought to the table. It's a remarkable baby bust of — yes — a helmeted conquistador.

The dessert cart had four offerings on my visits. Of those, the mango guava cheesecake and the old-fashioned, pastry-wrapped baked apple, both $8, are worth sharing.

Service was exceptional on all visits. There are several dining options at the resort, but El Conquistador is the most versatile. Dining room booked? No problem. You can order off the full menu and bar menu in the adjacent La Margarita bar. Want a side of fresh air with those appetizers? The outdoor patio has tables, as well.

Dining on a budget

Salad and appetizer selections will do little damage to your dining budget. If the main dining room is booked, the bar menu will keep your wallet happy too, with items ranging from $9-$14.

Dinner under $20: The thinly sliced, pan-seared tuna ($10) is served with a brown-mustard beer sauce and Asian coleslaw, and the tomato-basil and mozzarella salad drizzled with an olive oil-balsamic dressing ($8) will be plenty.

Dinner for $15: Try the French onion soup ($7) with Spanish sherry, manchego and provolone cheeses, and the Sonoma wedge ($6), a chilled wedge of iceberg, with tomato, bacon and a creamy blue cheese dressing.

Mission Inn Resort & Club's El Conquistador

Where: 10400 County Road 48, Howey-in-the-Hills.

When: from 6 p.m. nightly; El Conquistador menu available until 9:30 p.m., bar menu available until 11 p.m.

Reservations: A good idea around the holidays. But most weeknights tables are available in the main dining room.

Beverages: Full bar.

Sound level: Very quiet in the posh dining room; moderate, friendly buzz in the adjacent La Margarita lounge.

Wheelchair access: Yes.

Entrees: $20-$45.

Credit: All major cards accepted.

Call: 352-324-2024, Ext. 7475, or 1-800-874-9053.

Web: MissionInnResort .com